Plants are prolific seed producers. The task of the gardener is to preserve and improve the seed line. Some plants are self pollinating, making them easy for seed saving. Varieties that require cross pollination need to have enough flowering plants in the gene pool to maintain a strong and vibrant seed line. If you have the room, err on the site of too many plants than too few.
To improve the seed line you will want to save seed from plants which exhibit the best characteristics. This is the way gardeners have improved plants since the time of Adam. Each selection is a small nudge toward the characteristics you appreciate.
Crossing plants of very different qualities can yield exceptionally unique "hybrid" seeds. These plants can have unusually favorable combinations. If you were to save the seed for another generation, the combinations would likely not be exhibited in the same way, and in some cases the poor characteristics of the parent plants may become dominant. For these reasons, I suggest you plant heirloom or non-hybrid seeds, and improve your own seed through selection of the traits you desire. Saving seed is very enjoyable, and allows you to easily share a vegetable or herb that you have enjoyed.
Seed longevity is dependent on consistency of moisture and temperature. Low moisture and low temperature each improve seed longevity. Temperature and humidity swings mimic spring time, and the seed has to "wake up" more often, and uses more energy in the process. Dehydrate seeds at 100 degrees F. for 12 hours before storage in a chest freezer. Drying the seeds is critical, as water under the seed coat will burst the seed upon freezing. I often low pressure seal seeds in glass jars with silica gel packets. These steps are not required, but anything you can do to stabilize low humidity and low temps will extend the viability of your seeds. Storage above freezing temps is fine, but the lower the temp the longer the seed will last. I have seen recommendations that seeds should not be stored below 0 degrees F. This is really not a concern for most of us, as all general food storage freezers I know of have a range around 10 degrees to 25 degrees F.
Each vegetable will be unique in how exactly you will collect its seeds. Many plants have their seeds dry in capsules, and these simply need to be opened and the seeds cleaned and stored. Examples are the brasicas, beans, and many of the herbs. Fleshy vegetables like tomatoes, squash, cucumbers, melons, etc, need to have the seeds removed and cleaned, then dried. Some seeds do best with a fermentation process, which is what naturally happens when the vegetable sits over winter on the ground. In tomatoes, removing the seeds with the pulp into a glass jar, add some water, and allow the mixture to ferment for several days, then float off the scum, and separate the seeds from the pulp. At this point, you can gently dry the seeds and prepare them for storage.
Seed saving is where you really have to keep good records. The other day I cleaned out my refrigerator, and I found some seeds there from a few years past. I suspect they are still perfect for germination. A few of the seed bugs were labeled with variety and date. A few, I have only the seeds in a clear plastic bag. Perhaps that is the way they were given to me, but at this point, I can not tell you even who gave them to me, what they were like, or why I would want to replant them. I could tell what general type of plant it would produce, but knowing nothing of the parents, makes it a bit of a guess of what to call the seeds I would save from the plants from here on out. I like the idea of making my own new variety, but I would like to create a new variety name because of my work in selecting characteristics, and have records to show the new variety holds true for 16 trails over 4 seasons. Forming a new variety simply because I did not write down the name on the seed package does not count. The point I am working at here, is that you have to write down notes, and keep notes with the seeds themselves inside the storage container. Record the variety, date, and noted characteristics. Perhaps you could note the characteristics you were selecting for when you selected these seeds to be saved.
Most seeds are viable for 3-7 years, depending on the variety. I expect to perhaps double these ranges with how I store my seeds, but I will see how long my seeds remain viable with research and germination tests each year.
Some seeds are pollinated by the wind, and others by insects. For these to continue breeding true, you need to know what other gardeners around you are planting. If there are other gardens within range, then you would need to take barrier protection during pollination time.
Seed saving is easy, and a lot of fun. I hope you do give it a try. There is no need to purchase your seeds over and over again. You can just save some with minimal effort, and have your own renewing supply.
Resources:
No comments:
Post a Comment